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丽江:虎跳峡 |
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虎跳峡长20公里,落差213米,分为上虎跳、中虎跳、下虎峡三段,共有险滩18处。江面最窄处仅30余米。峡口海拔1800米,海拔高差3900多米,峡谷之深位居世界前列。
虎跳峡是世界上著名的大峡谷,以奇险雄壮著称。从虎跳峡镇过冲江河沿哈巴雪山山麓顺江而下,即可进入峡谷。上虎跳距虎跳峡镇9公里,有公路直达,是整个峡谷中最窄的一段,峡宽仅30余米,江心有一个13米高的大石——虎跳石,相传猛虎曾借此石而跃过大峡。江水与巨石相搏击发出山轰谷鸣的涛声。诗人孙髯翁写得好:“劈开蕃城斧无痕,流出犁牛向丽奔。一线中分天作堑,两山夹斗石为门。”金沙江至此真似走在石门中。
沿虎跳峡北上过永胜村便到达中虎跳。这一段江岸峭壁环锁,峭壁上怪石奇异。而江水却在不到5公里距离中跌百米。江中林立礁石,似犬牙交错,这一段被称为“满天星”。激荡的怒涛在礁石间左冲右撞,江面上一片雾氯空蒙。金沙江在这里变成了一条狂躁的猛龙。游人在此无不心惊胆战。 过了“满天星”,沿崎岖小路行走,一缕飞爆悬挂在哈巴山腰,当地人称之为“观音瀑”,一形似观音的山峰耸立于飞瀑旁,清风徐来琼浆飞散,丝丝缕缕扑人面颊,使充满阳刚之气的大峡又凭添了几分妩媚。 过观音瀑不远,一平缓山坡上坐落有一个小村,叫核桃园。房前屋后的粗大核桃树将民居掩映在浓绿青翠中,这里的房屋多以石板盖顶。到虎跳峡的游人,常在这别具风情的山村借宿。伴着劲烈的江风和江涛之声,有一种异常新奇的感觉。
出核桃园村,沿着尺许宽的山路前行3公里就可抵达下虎跳。这里地势宽衍,近可看峡,远可观山。驻足于此,回眺玉龙、哈巴,只见峰边嶂合,皑皑白雪,堆银集玉。
出下虎跳不远,在崎岖的山路上出现一片平直、光滑的世形石板,这便是虎跳峡有名的险路“滑石板”。该石板宽约300余米,呈85°角从峡底伸到哈巴山腰,石面平整光滑,寸草不生,行人稍一失足,即会滑到江心。过去人们视此路为鬼门关。
30年代初,著名人类文化学者维·弗·洛克曾三次游历虎跳峡,对峡谷流连忘返,并租用飞机对虎跳峡进行航拍,方感心满意足。建国后,张冲将军曾七次亲临虎跳峡,为开发虎跳峡的水利资源作出了不朽的贡献。最后,将遗骨洒入虎跳峡,使虎跳峡在悲壮中增添了许多豪气。
虎跳峡天下险,但这个“险”中却蕴藏着夺人心魄的壮美,正是这种“险”,吸引着国内外无数游客到此寻幽探险。
Between the Haba Snow Mountain and the Yulong(Jade Dragon) Snow Mountain is the world famous Tiger-Leaping Gorge. The Yulong Snow Mountain to the right of the Jingsha River is like a pillar supporting the sky. The drop from its peak to the bottom of the river valley is over 3,700 metres, which is 1,800 metres more than the drop in the Grand Canyon in Colorado,the United States. The Haba Snow Mountain on the other side of the river is slightly less precipitous. The two mountains run from north to south like chains, the peaks stand erect like walls, and the river rushes mercilessly along the valley,pounding the walls with a sound like thunder. The gorge is 15 kilometres long,and the drop from the beginning to the end is 196 metres. The size of the drop, the depth of the gorge and the narrowness of the river are very rare anywhere in the world. The Tiger-Leaping Gorge consists of upper, middle and lower sections, with 18 dangerous shoals and rapids. The upper part of the gorge is the narrowest. Nine kilometres away from the Town of Tiger-Leaping Gorge is a giant rock in the center of the river. Called "Tiger-Leaping Rock", it divides the rapid torrent into two. The sound of the silver-white waves hitting the rock is deafening. Legend has it that a fleeing tiger once jumped onto this rock from the Yulong Snow Mountain and then leaped away to the Haba Snow Mountain. That's why the gorge is named the Tiger-Leaping Gorge. Five kilometres from the upper section of the gorge, the middle section is the most dangerous and has the biggest drop. The most hazardous spot is a group of rocks called "Mantianxing"(the Sky full of Stars). Over 100 metres, rocks stand like forests amid the roaring water pulverizing it into a silver mist. Between the middle section and the lower section is another perilous spot called the "Huashiban"(Slippery Rock Face). At the lowest section of the gorge is a huge ravine over a kilometre deep. As this is close to the end of the gorge, it is the best place to get a really good view of the whole of Tiger-Leaping Gorge. Walking along the mountain path, which winds like a sheep's intestines,you cannot help holding your breath at the sight of the Haba and Yulong snow mountains rising straight into the clouds and their cliffs dropping directly into the river. The angry gales and the roaring river are performing an eternal duet, sounding exactly like dragons and tigers. Everything appears to be moving with the rushing torrents. The only immobile object seems to be the little Hetaoyuan(Walnut Garden)Village between the middle and lower sections of the gorge. With few visitors, this village is a real heaven with all the villagers leading the simplest of lives, The houses are built with giant rocks, and there is a small hotel where the few visitors who venture here can find a bed for the night. In ancient times a calligrapher managed to climb the sheer cliffs of the Yulong Snow Mountain and carve the words "Yubi Jinchuan"(Jade Cliffs and Golden River), an apt summary of the scenery here. |
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